2. Select a subject that has only four to six value shifts.
3. Identify and paint dark values first.
4. Harmonize values just like you do colors.
5. Connect lights, connect darks, do not dot...dot...dot.
6. Objects in the distance are lighter.
Thursday, September 27, 2012
Tuesday, August 14, 2012
Wednesday, April 25, 2012
Landscape notes
The following sentences were taken from a recent workshop given by James Richards in Tucker, Georgia.
James Richards Workshop Notes
Composition/ Value
Composition is the abstract arrangement of dark and light
masses.
Value is the lightness or darkness of a color.
A landscape painting needs a center of interest which
dominates the rest of the painting.
This area is enhanced by the following:
- most detailed drawing
- sharpest edges, strongest contrast
- most saturated colors
- addition of manmade structures, animals, or people
- complimentary colors
- should not be placed in the center of the canvas.
Make your single statement clear and forceful. Don’t try to say too much. Many paintings are ruined by this.
Create at least three planes: foreground, middle ground, and
background. Each has its own dominant
value.
General rule is that there are four planes in a landscape and
their value is relevant to their angle to the source of light. The sky(source of light)- is the lightest. Ground planes are next lightest. Slanted planes are next. Upright planes are darkest.
Keep your value range tight.
Holding back on value and color creates a certain power in a painting
It is upon sound values that a picture depends for its
solidity and convincing power.
Try to visualize the finished painting before you begin. Do several thumbnails and value studies to
help develop a strong idea and design.
Keep it simple.
Don’t be afraid of editing and moving objects around to help
emphasize the main idea.
Try having a rest area in front of the center of
interest. This allows for some
breathing room and really helps set the stage.
Make sure you use horizontals, verticals, and diagonals, and
that one dominates.
Lean objects inward not outward.
Try limiting your painting to seven or fewer masses.
Try to find a way to connect all of the lights or all of the
darks.
Relate every value to one another. Value relationships are the most import thing in making a
painting read.
Within each mass in a painting, keep the values closer
together than what you actually see in nature.
Remember that the closer together you can paint your lights
and shadows in value and still distinguish light from shadow, the better you
are as a painter.
The one unbreakable rule in painting is unequal distribution.
-of masses
-light and shadow
-warm and cool colors
-soft and hard edges
-thick and thin paint
-horizontal, vertical, and diagonal lines
Common errors to avoid
- Lines that come from or go
to the corners
- Parallel lines
- Repetition of the same size
mass
- Dividing the canvas in half
- Kissing edges
- Too many sharp edges
- Equal spacing between
objects
Light, Color,
and Atmospheric Perspective
Light and shadows are opposite in temperature. Temperature is relevant within each
painting.
Yellow is the warmest color.
Also the first to drop out as you recede in distance.
The darkest darks are dark and warm up close. They then lighten, purple, and blue off as they recede.
Colors lighten and cool off as they recede.
It’s good to have one
color dominate.
Compare trees to trees and trees to grass. You don’t want both the same color. Nor do you want all of your trees to be the
same color. Look for variety.
Texture comes forward and thin paint recedes.
There are subtle
temperature shifts within just about every mass.
Edges
An edge is formed where two colors, values, or objects
meet. An edge is either sharp, soft, or
somewhere in between.
Sharp edges can be used with great effectiveness in leading
the eye around a painting.
The strongest contrasts are found up front. Contrast decreases with distance.
Thursday, April 19, 2012
Monday, January 10, 2011
notes
The elements and principles of design are the building blocks used to create a work of art. The elements of design can be thought of as the things that make up a painting, drawing, design etc. Good or bad - all paintings will contain most of if not all, the seven elements of design.
The Principles of design can be thought of as what we do to the elements of design. How we apply the Principles of design determines how successful we are in creating a work of art.
note - the hyperlinks within the text of this page will open information in a new browser window. After you have read that information the window can then be closed leaving this window open.
THE ELEMENTS OF DESIGN
LINE
Line can be considered in two ways. The linear marks made with a pen or brush or the edge created when two shapes meet.
SHAPE
A shape is a self contained defined area of geometric or organic form. A positive shape in a painting automatically creates a negative shape.
DIRECTION
All lines have direction - Horizontal, Vertical or Oblique. Horizontal suggests calmness, stability and tranquillity. Vertical gives a feeling of balance, formality and alertness. Oblique suggests movement and action
see notes on direction
SIZE
Size is simply the relationship of the area occupied by one shape to that of another.
TEXTURE
Texture is the surface quality of a shape - rough, smooth, soft hard glossy etc. Texture can be physical (tactile) or visual.
see notes on texture
COLOUR
Also called Hue
see notes on colour
VALUE
Value is the lightness or darkness of a colour. Value is also called Tone
see notes on tonal contrast
THE PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN
BALANCE
Balance in design is similar to balance in physics
A large shape close to the center can be balanced
by a small shape close to the edge. A large light
toned shape will be balanced by a small dark toned
shape (the darker the shape the heavier it appears to be)
GRADATION
Gradation of size and direction produce linear perspective. Gradation of of colour from warm to cool and tone from dark to light produce aerial perspective. Gradation can add interest and movement to a shape. A gradation from dark to light will cause the eye to move along a shape.
REPETITION
Repetition with variation is interesting, without variation repetition can become monotonous.
The five squares above are all the same. They can be taken in and understood with a single glance.
When variation is introduced, the five squares, although similar, are much more interesting to look at. They can no longer be absorbed properly with a single glance. The individual character of each square needs to be considered.
If you wish to create interest, any repeating element should include a degree of variation.
CONTRAST
Contrast is the juxtaposition of opposing elements eg. opposite colours on the colour wheel - red / green, blue / orange etc. Contrast in tone or value - light / dark. Contrast in direction - horizontal / vertical.
The major contrast in a painting should be located at the center of interest. Too much contrast scattered throughout a painting can destroy unity and make a work difficult to look at. Unless a feeling of chaos and confusion are what you are seeking, it is a good idea to carefully consider where to place your areas of maximum contrast.
HARMONY
Harmony in painting is the visually satisfying effect of combining similar, related elements. eg.adjacent colours on the colour wheel, similar shapes etc.
DOMINANCE
Dominance gives a painting interest, counteracting confusion and monotony. Dominance can be applied to one or more of the elements to give emphasis
UNITY
Relating the design elements to the the idea being expressed in a painting reinforces the principal of unity.eg. a painting with an active aggressive subject would work better with a dominant oblique direction, course, rough texture, angular lines etc. whereas a quiet passive subject would benefit from horizontal lines, soft texture and less tonal contrast.
Unity in a painting also refers to the visual linking of various elements of the work.
After studying these notes on the elements and principals of design, try this exercise
© JOHN LOVETT 1999
image to see an enlarged view.
The Principles of design can be thought of as what we do to the elements of design. How we apply the Principles of design determines how successful we are in creating a work of art.
note - the hyperlinks within the text of this page will open information in a new browser window. After you have read that information the window can then be closed leaving this window open.
THE ELEMENTS OF DESIGN
LINE
Line can be considered in two ways. The linear marks made with a pen or brush or the edge created when two shapes meet.
SHAPE
A shape is a self contained defined area of geometric or organic form. A positive shape in a painting automatically creates a negative shape.
DIRECTION
All lines have direction - Horizontal, Vertical or Oblique. Horizontal suggests calmness, stability and tranquillity. Vertical gives a feeling of balance, formality and alertness. Oblique suggests movement and action
see notes on direction
SIZE
Size is simply the relationship of the area occupied by one shape to that of another.
TEXTURE
Texture is the surface quality of a shape - rough, smooth, soft hard glossy etc. Texture can be physical (tactile) or visual.
see notes on texture
COLOUR
Also called Hue
see notes on colour
VALUE
Value is the lightness or darkness of a colour. Value is also called Tone
see notes on tonal contrast
THE PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN
BALANCE
Balance in design is similar to balance in physics
A large shape close to the center can be balanced
by a small shape close to the edge. A large light
toned shape will be balanced by a small dark toned
shape (the darker the shape the heavier it appears to be)
GRADATION
Gradation of size and direction produce linear perspective. Gradation of of colour from warm to cool and tone from dark to light produce aerial perspective. Gradation can add interest and movement to a shape. A gradation from dark to light will cause the eye to move along a shape.
REPETITION
Repetition with variation is interesting, without variation repetition can become monotonous.
The five squares above are all the same. They can be taken in and understood with a single glance.
When variation is introduced, the five squares, although similar, are much more interesting to look at. They can no longer be absorbed properly with a single glance. The individual character of each square needs to be considered.
If you wish to create interest, any repeating element should include a degree of variation.
CONTRAST
Contrast is the juxtaposition of opposing elements eg. opposite colours on the colour wheel - red / green, blue / orange etc. Contrast in tone or value - light / dark. Contrast in direction - horizontal / vertical.
The major contrast in a painting should be located at the center of interest. Too much contrast scattered throughout a painting can destroy unity and make a work difficult to look at. Unless a feeling of chaos and confusion are what you are seeking, it is a good idea to carefully consider where to place your areas of maximum contrast.
HARMONY
Harmony in painting is the visually satisfying effect of combining similar, related elements. eg.adjacent colours on the colour wheel, similar shapes etc.
DOMINANCE
Dominance gives a painting interest, counteracting confusion and monotony. Dominance can be applied to one or more of the elements to give emphasis
UNITY
Relating the design elements to the the idea being expressed in a painting reinforces the principal of unity.eg. a painting with an active aggressive subject would work better with a dominant oblique direction, course, rough texture, angular lines etc. whereas a quiet passive subject would benefit from horizontal lines, soft texture and less tonal contrast.
Unity in a painting also refers to the visual linking of various elements of the work.
After studying these notes on the elements and principals of design, try this exercise
© JOHN LOVETT 1999
image to see an enlarged view.
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Papa, Mama, baby
Color and the composition Balance Formula (1,2,3 or Papa, Mama, baby, or mostly, some and a bit you choose how you can best remember)
Color IS part of composition and especially in the landscape. One sure way to make a boring painting is to use your colors equally dispersed throughout your painting. As an example, if you use equal quantities of warm and cool colors there will be no dominance and no variety making your painting uninteresting.
You can study color theory and try to apply what you know but above all if you can remember to check your color balance then your chances of making a successful painting will be greater. Try this 1,2,3 formula checklist:
1. Does your painting colors lean more to cool, warm or an equal mix of color? If your painting leans more to cool, then you need to consider where you will use some warmer colors to give the painting zip. Or, if you painting shows mostly warm colors you need to consider where you could use some cool colors. A good rule is to use the 1 part, 2 part, three part formula to keep the painting from being boring.
2. Does your painting have mostly dark, mostly light or an equal mix? Again, use the 1 part, 2 part, 3 part formula to keep the painting interesting.
3. Does your painting carry mostly pure colors, tints, shades or tones? Would your painting benefit from the using the 1 part, 2 part, three part formula in this regard?
4. Have you placed some color in your painting that contrasts with the main color balance in your painting but still with consideration to the balance formula? (Think red-green, yellow-purple, blue-orange.)
5. Are all your colors distributed equally or would your painting benefit from thinking 1 part, 2 part, three part?
6. Does your painting show color value ranges, temperature, intensity, various color planes, color textures and color shapes.
Color IS part of composition and especially in the landscape. One sure way to make a boring painting is to use your colors equally dispersed throughout your painting. As an example, if you use equal quantities of warm and cool colors there will be no dominance and no variety making your painting uninteresting.
You can study color theory and try to apply what you know but above all if you can remember to check your color balance then your chances of making a successful painting will be greater. Try this 1,2,3 formula checklist:
1. Does your painting colors lean more to cool, warm or an equal mix of color? If your painting leans more to cool, then you need to consider where you will use some warmer colors to give the painting zip. Or, if you painting shows mostly warm colors you need to consider where you could use some cool colors. A good rule is to use the 1 part, 2 part, three part formula to keep the painting from being boring.
2. Does your painting have mostly dark, mostly light or an equal mix? Again, use the 1 part, 2 part, 3 part formula to keep the painting interesting.
3. Does your painting carry mostly pure colors, tints, shades or tones? Would your painting benefit from the using the 1 part, 2 part, three part formula in this regard?
4. Have you placed some color in your painting that contrasts with the main color balance in your painting but still with consideration to the balance formula? (Think red-green, yellow-purple, blue-orange.)
5. Are all your colors distributed equally or would your painting benefit from thinking 1 part, 2 part, three part?
6. Does your painting show color value ranges, temperature, intensity, various color planes, color textures and color shapes.
Color notes
Color notes
http://artaction.resene.co.nz/color13.htm
http://www.color-wheel-artist.com/hue.html
Review what Complementary colors are
http://www.color-wheel-artist.com/color-schemes.html
Things to remember
1. Remember how our eye sees when looking through air. Value differences decrease with distance: the lights get darker and the darks get lighter. Values get closer together. You will not use pure white or pure black in distant areas of your painting.
2. All things have a basic color. This color (hue) does not change. We can only alter the basic color of objects. If we want to paint a red apple, then we will use variations of the red color. In other words, we will use red as our mother color and just add other colors to it to make variations we see in the apple which help us make the apple have volume instead of laying flat on the paper.
3. It helps to remember to use three values for our darks and three for our lights.
4. Colors in the light sides of objects are painted using warm colors.
5. Colors in the distant side of objects are painted with cool colors, but note that distant objects with light sides are painted with warms, but have cools mixed in too. The exception can be the light side of clouds. For clouds in the sun, you begin with ice cold white, tined with warms such as orange, cad red or cad yellow.
6. Colors in the dark side of objects are painted using cool colors.
When in doubt about a shadow color, use FUB.
&. Shadows are lighter as they move away from the object making the shadow.
Warm colors (light sides)
Cad Yellow Medium
Cadmium Orange (high value)
Burnt Sienna (Dark Value Orange)
Cadmium Red
Sap Green
Thalo Blue
Cool Colors (Dark sides)
Lemon yellow (Hansa yellow/Azo yellow or Yellow ochre
Yellow Ochre, Burnt Umber mixed with yellow Ochre
Burnt Umber
Alizarin Crimson
Thalo Green
Ultramarine Blue
http://artaction.resene.co.nz/color13.htm
http://www.color-wheel-artist.com/hue.html
Review what Complementary colors are
http://www.color-wheel-artist.com/color-schemes.html
Things to remember
1. Remember how our eye sees when looking through air. Value differences decrease with distance: the lights get darker and the darks get lighter. Values get closer together. You will not use pure white or pure black in distant areas of your painting.
2. All things have a basic color. This color (hue) does not change. We can only alter the basic color of objects. If we want to paint a red apple, then we will use variations of the red color. In other words, we will use red as our mother color and just add other colors to it to make variations we see in the apple which help us make the apple have volume instead of laying flat on the paper.
3. It helps to remember to use three values for our darks and three for our lights.
4. Colors in the light sides of objects are painted using warm colors.
5. Colors in the distant side of objects are painted with cool colors, but note that distant objects with light sides are painted with warms, but have cools mixed in too. The exception can be the light side of clouds. For clouds in the sun, you begin with ice cold white, tined with warms such as orange, cad red or cad yellow.
6. Colors in the dark side of objects are painted using cool colors.
When in doubt about a shadow color, use FUB.
&. Shadows are lighter as they move away from the object making the shadow.
Warm colors (light sides)
Cad Yellow Medium
Cadmium Orange (high value)
Burnt Sienna (Dark Value Orange)
Cadmium Red
Sap Green
Thalo Blue
Cool Colors (Dark sides)
Lemon yellow (Hansa yellow/Azo yellow or Yellow ochre
Yellow Ochre, Burnt Umber mixed with yellow Ochre
Burnt Umber
Alizarin Crimson
Thalo Green
Ultramarine Blue
Saturday, October 04, 2008
How to find an art agent.
Do you know who your strongest competitor is? If you do, find out who their agent is and see if that agent can take on another client. You might find they don’t have an actual agent, but market themselves in other ways like placing ads in trade magazines. Recently Eric, the owner of Artspan, placed a full page in Art in America. I’ve seen similar ads in Art Review, Antiques and Art and Artist Advocate. Taking out a large ad in a national magazine can cost big bucks, but it can also give you big returns. You have to be ready for it in the way of the number of pieces you can have on hand at any one time. If you share the expense with say 5 other artists, then the cost is cut down and you all get great exposure. This is what Eric did. He ask all of us if we would like to participate and several did. This is one of the reasons I like Artspan. Eric is always thinking of ways to help all of us.
You can be your own art agent but if you can’t because of time constraints or just don’t have the skills, I think I’d start out with someone that might be willing to promote you for a percent of sales. Most of the time an artist gains a reputation for the work they create in their local town and then branch out from there as they have more and more work to offer. I’ve known many artists who have husbands or wives that work as agents for their spouse.
If an agent approaches you don’t pay money in advance. You don’t have to get a lawyer to help you with contracts but if you can afford one, it certainly won’t hurt especially if you are looking to do this for many years. Start out with your agent on a small scale and a small time frame so both of you can see if you have a good fit. Once you see that things will work out you can think about what you need in a contract to protect you and your work. I’m also sure that the agent would want to protect themselves as well by asking for an exclusive contract.
Why not try the Tupperware party approach… get your friend to act as your agent and throw some Jewelry parties locally and then get their friends to book parties … soon your work would be all over the place. I’ve often thought art could be sold like that too. Hook up with a decorator and have them teach people how to hang art. Hook up with a model and have her wear your jewelry and teach folks how to wear jewelry to the best advantage. I can see it now… get in touch with a civic group and tell them you have an idea for a program. Civic groups are always looking for program material that would be of interest to their members. Okay.. this idea is going to cost you.
:jest:
Wishing you much success! :drink:
You can be your own art agent but if you can’t because of time constraints or just don’t have the skills, I think I’d start out with someone that might be willing to promote you for a percent of sales. Most of the time an artist gains a reputation for the work they create in their local town and then branch out from there as they have more and more work to offer. I’ve known many artists who have husbands or wives that work as agents for their spouse.
If an agent approaches you don’t pay money in advance. You don’t have to get a lawyer to help you with contracts but if you can afford one, it certainly won’t hurt especially if you are looking to do this for many years. Start out with your agent on a small scale and a small time frame so both of you can see if you have a good fit. Once you see that things will work out you can think about what you need in a contract to protect you and your work. I’m also sure that the agent would want to protect themselves as well by asking for an exclusive contract.
Why not try the Tupperware party approach… get your friend to act as your agent and throw some Jewelry parties locally and then get their friends to book parties … soon your work would be all over the place. I’ve often thought art could be sold like that too. Hook up with a decorator and have them teach people how to hang art. Hook up with a model and have her wear your jewelry and teach folks how to wear jewelry to the best advantage. I can see it now… get in touch with a civic group and tell them you have an idea for a program. Civic groups are always looking for program material that would be of interest to their members. Okay.. this idea is going to cost you.
:jest:
Wishing you much success! :drink:
Friday, August 29, 2008
Shadow notes
Concerning landscapes:
1. Over half of all shadows are made from the sky color which is usually ultramarine blue, alizarin and yellow ochre in various proportions.
2. "For me, shadows are filled with light and air. I try to make the paint quality transparent in shadow areas to convey their airyness. In addition, the temperature of shadow areas is the opposite of the light source. If the light is cool, the shadows are warm, and vice versa." Donna Cusano
General:
1.Looking at any subject, you find two different types of shadows, cast shadows and form shadows. Once you begin to see the different types of shadows you will be able to take your painting further and make it more believable and interesting.
A cast shadow is what we think of when we sing the tune “Me and my shadow.” It the kind of shadow that is created when some object blocks the light source. For example, think of any object and then think of the shadow it would make if that object was sitting on a table or on the ground. The shadow you see is called a cast shadow. Same thing with shadows created by a flower blocking the light from another flower or a hat sitting on someone’s head. Even a nose can create a cast shadow. Casts shadows are the darker type of shadow because most of the light is being blocked out. Still there is color and a shadow isn’t a solid object… it is just a dark shape falling on a lighter surface, so some of that surface color has to show thru. Using transparent colors to create your shadows is a good idea but remember to make your shadows have sharp edges at the very base where the shadow meets the object but as the shadow leaves the object make the edges less sharp, less defined, softer and lighter.
A form shadow is the shadow that is actually found ON the object. Again it’s a shadow that is not in direct light. Mastering shadow form will help you turn an object making it have volume—three-dimensional. Form shadows are mostly soft having less defined edges and much lighter than it’s partner cast shadow.
Then there is the matter of reflected light, which I think of as a reverse shadow… lol, I thought I’d confuse you with that one.
Again, these are just notes cleaned up a bit. Hope I haven’t gotten anything confused.
2. Shadow color is determined by the light source and what the shadow is laying on top of. If you were painting a shadow on green grass and then that same shadow continued on to a pavement, the shadow would change color because the color of what the shadow is laying on top of would be different.
3. Reflected light is the light that jumps back onto the object from the light source hitting the ground, table, cheek other objects, as examples. Because it hits the ground, table, cheek or other object it will have some of that color in it but will be much lighter.
1. Over half of all shadows are made from the sky color which is usually ultramarine blue, alizarin and yellow ochre in various proportions.
2. "For me, shadows are filled with light and air. I try to make the paint quality transparent in shadow areas to convey their airyness. In addition, the temperature of shadow areas is the opposite of the light source. If the light is cool, the shadows are warm, and vice versa." Donna Cusano
General:
1.Looking at any subject, you find two different types of shadows, cast shadows and form shadows. Once you begin to see the different types of shadows you will be able to take your painting further and make it more believable and interesting.
A cast shadow is what we think of when we sing the tune “Me and my shadow.” It the kind of shadow that is created when some object blocks the light source. For example, think of any object and then think of the shadow it would make if that object was sitting on a table or on the ground. The shadow you see is called a cast shadow. Same thing with shadows created by a flower blocking the light from another flower or a hat sitting on someone’s head. Even a nose can create a cast shadow. Casts shadows are the darker type of shadow because most of the light is being blocked out. Still there is color and a shadow isn’t a solid object… it is just a dark shape falling on a lighter surface, so some of that surface color has to show thru. Using transparent colors to create your shadows is a good idea but remember to make your shadows have sharp edges at the very base where the shadow meets the object but as the shadow leaves the object make the edges less sharp, less defined, softer and lighter.
A form shadow is the shadow that is actually found ON the object. Again it’s a shadow that is not in direct light. Mastering shadow form will help you turn an object making it have volume—three-dimensional. Form shadows are mostly soft having less defined edges and much lighter than it’s partner cast shadow.
Then there is the matter of reflected light, which I think of as a reverse shadow… lol, I thought I’d confuse you with that one.
Again, these are just notes cleaned up a bit. Hope I haven’t gotten anything confused.
2. Shadow color is determined by the light source and what the shadow is laying on top of. If you were painting a shadow on green grass and then that same shadow continued on to a pavement, the shadow would change color because the color of what the shadow is laying on top of would be different.
3. Reflected light is the light that jumps back onto the object from the light source hitting the ground, table, cheek other objects, as examples. Because it hits the ground, table, cheek or other object it will have some of that color in it but will be much lighter.
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Color Wheel error
Click any image to see an enlarged view.
Looking back at the first steps to create my very own color wheel, I see I made a mistake not in creating the color, but in placing it in its correct spot. Did you see my mistake?
Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to work some more on the color wheel and do the first exercise.
Wednesday, July 09, 2008
Color wheel - spectrum colors
Click any image to see an enlarged view.
Finished with my color mixing for today.
I made all the colors found around the color wheel using the recipes in the book I'm using. The only adjustment I made was finding a sub for thalo green. I decided it was close enough to viridian. I looked at the color wheel I had printed it off from the handprint site. I can't seem to find the exact one at the handprint site but I did find this one ... a value chart of colors all lined up against a gray scale value bar. I thought it was pretty cool and did answer some questions for me. http://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/vwheel.html all the information at handprint.com is for watercolors but you can learn much that translates to oils and acrylics there. After all, pigment is pigment.
Here's my color mixing for today.
Another point I found interesting at handprint is this statement:
Finished with my color mixing for today.
I made all the colors found around the color wheel using the recipes in the book I'm using. The only adjustment I made was finding a sub for thalo green. I decided it was close enough to viridian. I looked at the color wheel I had printed it off from the handprint site. I can't seem to find the exact one at the handprint site but I did find this one ... a value chart of colors all lined up against a gray scale value bar. I thought it was pretty cool and did answer some questions for me. http://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/vwheel.html all the information at handprint.com is for watercolors but you can learn much that translates to oils and acrylics there. After all, pigment is pigment.
Here's my color mixing for today.
Another point I found interesting at handprint is this statement:
Because most artists have been trained under the "color theory" dogma that paints are just "colors", even knowledgeable artists or authors such as Michael Wilcox, Charles Reid, Susanna Spann, Jim Kosvanec or the late Zoltan Szabo do not always keep the distinction clear between pigments (colored powders), paints (mixtures of pigments and liquid vehicle) and "colors" (the product names given to paints). This results in frequent inaccuracies and outdated information in art instruction books, as explained in my book reviews. The editors at publishing houses such as Watson-Guptill, North Light or Watercolor Magazine share in the responsibility — after all, packaging and distributing information is their business. This confusion is an entrenched habit, abetted by the marketing techniques of art materials manufacturers, but a conscientious effort by artists, authors and publishers can put it in the past.
Color Study
Click any image to see an enlarged view.
I'm beginning a study of color. I may have mentioned this a couple of times before, because I've started this color study several times and just got distracted. It would be good if I had a class that I had to show up to at a certain time and then get a grade at the end... that might help me finish up, but until then, I'm going to start again and again if that's what it takes. :)
For my study of color I'm going to use a book written by Arthur Stern called "How to see color and paint it". I may jump around a bit so I don't get bogged down in reading text and not getting paint on a canvas but I do intend on moving thru the exercises he gives. I've never made it past the third exercise before. There are 22 painting projects. I feel that finishing all 22 will give me a better understanding of where I go wrong with most of my paintings.
I'll post my progress if you want to follow along and welcome you to also post any exercise you might do too. Actually, if you would do the exercises with me, it might help me complete them. We could be classmates! :)
Get ready:
I'll be using 8 oil paints.
Alizarin crimson
Cadmium red light
Cadmium orange
Cadminum yellow pale
Phthalocyanine green
Phthalocyannine blue
Ultramarine blue
Titanium white
Palette knifes
Canvas
Palette
solvent and medium
view finder
set up box
easel
paper towels
pencil
tape
colored paper ... I may use material instead. (this is for taping to the set up box so you can change out the color of your background)
trash can
easel
lights
You might think listing these is silly but I'm also trying really hard to clean up my studio, so having a list of things I need helps me make sure I keep my essentials handy... ready to use.
I need to contruct a set up box. So that's what I'm doing today.
I'm beginning a study of color. I may have mentioned this a couple of times before, because I've started this color study several times and just got distracted. It would be good if I had a class that I had to show up to at a certain time and then get a grade at the end... that might help me finish up, but until then, I'm going to start again and again if that's what it takes. :)
For my study of color I'm going to use a book written by Arthur Stern called "How to see color and paint it". I may jump around a bit so I don't get bogged down in reading text and not getting paint on a canvas but I do intend on moving thru the exercises he gives. I've never made it past the third exercise before. There are 22 painting projects. I feel that finishing all 22 will give me a better understanding of where I go wrong with most of my paintings.
I'll post my progress if you want to follow along and welcome you to also post any exercise you might do too. Actually, if you would do the exercises with me, it might help me complete them. We could be classmates! :)
Get ready:
I'll be using 8 oil paints.
Alizarin crimson
Cadmium red light
Cadmium orange
Cadminum yellow pale
Phthalocyanine green
Phthalocyannine blue
Ultramarine blue
Titanium white
Palette knifes
Canvas
Palette
solvent and medium
view finder
set up box
easel
paper towels
pencil
tape
colored paper ... I may use material instead. (this is for taping to the set up box so you can change out the color of your background)
trash can
easel
lights
You might think listing these is silly but I'm also trying really hard to clean up my studio, so having a list of things I need helps me make sure I keep my essentials handy... ready to use.
I need to contruct a set up box. So that's what I'm doing today.
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Time to move on
Click any image to see an enlarged view.
It's time to move on. I've broken the dry spell and am inspired to go on to the next painting. This final edit is not what I had hoped for but learning to push values from the darkest darks to the lightest lights is good for me. The final painting is too green, but like I said, it's time to move on. After all, all three of the paintings have about 5 pounds of paint on each of them. Just teasing. :)
Monday, June 23, 2008
corrected values
Click any image to see an enlarged view.
Corrected values... some correction on color
Plein Air Ocean studies
Click any image to see an enlarged view.
Slowly I'm being able to stand to paint. I've taken some old plein air paintings out from the storage room and have tried to finish them up and get them framed.
I am really rusty and feel the need to do some color work so I'm going to try to do that the next few days.
To see what I'm talking about, take a look at these in gray scale and then I'll post the color images next. The gray scale images look so much better in my opinion.
Wednesday, March 05, 2008
March Newsletter
March 2008
To: Plein Air Georgia Members
From: Phyllis Franklin in Thomaston, Georgia
I have great news. Jim Greenwood of Acworth, Georgia has agreed to manage and keep PAG on line and serve as a board member. Thank you so much Jim. I know I hear applause and cheers from everyone. Thank you too to BJ Wright and Jo Adang who have agreed to stay on as editors and advisory board members. I too will stay on as an advisory board member to lend support to Jim.
Look for a letter from Jim soon telling you of plans he has for 2008. Also look for a membership invoice to come to you. When you get this invoice, just follow the instructions given to you by the Pay Pal folks. Your support moving PAG forward is so appreciated.
You do not have to become a member of PAG to participate in most events but by becoming a member you will show your support for the organization, its mission and activities. We also provide a Yahoo discussion group which will alert you event news via email and encourage you to join at your earliest convenience. Go to www.yahoo.com and select groups, enter the name Plein Air Georgia in the group search box and that will give you a box to click and join. Joining the discussion group is not mandatory but just nice if you want to receive news via email.
It is an honor to be a member of PAG. At Plein Air Georgia, we have no preference as to style, materials used, or artistic interpretation. These are all personal choices that contribute to the unique expression of each artist while they paint 'en plein air'. Likewise, we think honest work by novice or professional is equally valid. The challenges and rewards of plein air painting are open to all. Although many of us are not die-hard plein air purist, we all enjoy painting outside and enjoy networking with fellow artists who enjoy the same. Some of us claim the title of plein air artists and others just enjoy the occasional outing. No matter how much or how little you are able to get outside and paint, all painters and patrons alike are welcome as members of PAG.
Join us for Workshops- paintouts- forum discussions, friendship
There is always something new to learn to push us beyond our comfort zone. Our mission is to serve the membership by providing a means to communicate with each other, share event and workshop information and provide a showcase for our work
To join, send an email to pleinairga@yahoo.com requesting membership. An invoice will be sent to you. Please provide us with the following:
Name - Email address
Website URL if you have one
Short Biography or artist statement
Physical location – town – county -Local art organization
Three or four images of your work in jpg or gif format along with art size, title and medium.
We are excited to have you as a member us no matter if you join with full membership or just join the Yahoo discussion Group. If you would like to become a contributing editor or serve on the advisory board for your area with post capabilities to the news blog, which feeds into the PAG web, let us know and we can set that up for you. Web membership is not required to be a news correspondent nor is membership at the Yahoo discussion group. What is important is being able to stay informed so we don't miss an event, resource or opportunity that takes place somewhere members might like to attend. If you have questions, just send a message to pleinairga@yahoo.com and that will reach the PAG staff.
Jo Adang
Phyllis Franklin
Jim Greenwood
BJ Wright
Friday, November 09, 2007
November Colors
The colors outside are finally showing in some spots around my neighborhood and I'm anxious to get out and paint but don't think thats going to happen anytime soon. I'm making good progress with my knee and all the other stuff going on.
Test results for anemia are encouraging as this new med pack is doing it's job and I finished up yesterday with a very painful physical therapy session for my knee that has bursitis. Once this bursitis goes away, I hope I NEVER have another attack. It's the same knee that had the broken patella a couple of years ago. I'm going to do everything possible to keep my knee healthy for sure. At least now I can walk a bit, sit a bit and get some things done like the ton of clothes piled up in my laundry room. Today I'm going to walk to the mailbox and see how that goes. If that works, I'm going to get myself out to the studio tomorrow. I also hope that I'll be able to sit at the computer and share some art things I've been reading.
I miss keeping the girls more than I thought I would. Strange how life makes it's twists and turns and all the things you though you knew about yourself change. Some pleasent and some not so.
Hope you all are going well.
Test results for anemia are encouraging as this new med pack is doing it's job and I finished up yesterday with a very painful physical therapy session for my knee that has bursitis. Once this bursitis goes away, I hope I NEVER have another attack. It's the same knee that had the broken patella a couple of years ago. I'm going to do everything possible to keep my knee healthy for sure. At least now I can walk a bit, sit a bit and get some things done like the ton of clothes piled up in my laundry room. Today I'm going to walk to the mailbox and see how that goes. If that works, I'm going to get myself out to the studio tomorrow. I also hope that I'll be able to sit at the computer and share some art things I've been reading.
I miss keeping the girls more than I thought I would. Strange how life makes it's twists and turns and all the things you though you knew about yourself change. Some pleasent and some not so.
Hope you all are going well.
Friday, August 31, 2007
Jack the Koi
The end of August and the sky is overcast with the promise of rain. The goldfish in the pond pretend they are koi as they splash their fins in and out of the cool morning waters. When we are children it’s fun to play dress up and prance around like the princesses that our mother’s tell us we are. It’s good to watch the fish playing and remember the play times when we were transported from everyday life into a fantasy world. What is it they say? All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy.
Jack the Koi
En plein air 08-31-07
8x10 framed without mat
Soft Pastel on Canson
Framed & ready to hang
$100.00
Contact phyllisfranklin@hotmail for availability
Click any image to see an enlarged view.
Colored Pastel Paper
This morning I woke up early, before dawn, and got myself together for the day. As soon as it was light enough I went out in the yard to the goldfish pond and sat with my pastel pencils and some dusty red canson paper taped to a slick masonite board. I watched for a bit as the fish played around catching the early morning bugs. I guess everyone was waking up and wanting breakfast. The birds were singing and the frogs had gone silent I suppose in fear I would see them.
The fish in the pond are just ordinary goldfish, but one has a fancy tail and I guess that makes him special. I call him Jack. As I sat thinking and drawing I thought about the paintings I had looked at the night before of wonderful koi swimming in a pool. Jack had all the moves of a koi, but just wasn't a big and he was just orange all over, not spotted like some koi are, but like I said he had the spirit of koi. So, I pretended he was a koi just like pretend when I was a little girl and wanted to be a princess. Before my hour was up I had finished my work and felt really good about the painting, so I hurred to get it under glass and framed.
The Canson paper I used was a dusty red color so I just blocked in Jack letting the paper show thru. Working on a red background and letting the background pop thru everyonce in a while is a good thing to bring harmony to a painting. Keeping your colors limited is another way to bring harmony. I put down a dark blue layer around Jack and then proceeded to layer in yellows and some greens over the dark blue which produced different shades of green all the way across. To finish the painting up, I used a cerulean blue pastel which worked well with the red paper.
Normally you frame pastels using a mat and spacers to keep the paper from touching the glass, but you can frame pastels next to the glass if you are sure you have the paper secure so it will not rub or shuffle at any time. I took care to tape the Canson paper with archival tape to an archival backing board and then framed next to the glass. Yes, you lose some of the sparkle, but in this case, framing next to the glass actually helped the illusion of Jack in the water.
Jack the Koi
En plein air 08-31-07
8x10 framed without mat
Soft Pastel on Canson
Framed & ready to hang
$100.00
Contact phyllisfranklin@hotmail for availability
The fish in the pond are just ordinary goldfish, but one has a fancy tail and I guess that makes him special. I call him Jack. As I sat thinking and drawing I thought about the paintings I had looked at the night before of wonderful koi swimming in a pool. Jack had all the moves of a koi, but just wasn't a big and he was just orange all over, not spotted like some koi are, but like I said he had the spirit of koi. So, I pretended he was a koi just like pretend when I was a little girl and wanted to be a princess. Before my hour was up I had finished my work and felt really good about the painting, so I hurred to get it under glass and framed.
The Canson paper I used was a dusty red color so I just blocked in Jack letting the paper show thru. Working on a red background and letting the background pop thru everyonce in a while is a good thing to bring harmony to a painting. Keeping your colors limited is another way to bring harmony. I put down a dark blue layer around Jack and then proceeded to layer in yellows and some greens over the dark blue which produced different shades of green all the way across. To finish the painting up, I used a cerulean blue pastel which worked well with the red paper.
Normally you frame pastels using a mat and spacers to keep the paper from touching the glass, but you can frame pastels next to the glass if you are sure you have the paper secure so it will not rub or shuffle at any time. I took care to tape the Canson paper with archival tape to an archival backing board and then framed next to the glass. Yes, you lose some of the sparkle, but in this case, framing next to the glass actually helped the illusion of Jack in the water.
Jack the Koi
En plein air 08-31-07
8x10 framed without mat
Soft Pastel on Canson
Framed & ready to hang
$100.00
Contact phyllisfranklin@hotmail for availability
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Always mix a puddle of the colors used in your painting together and see if it leans to the cool side or the warm side before adding white for your final gray and again... check your values. You may need a warm gray or cool gray, darker or lighter... you are the artist. You choose what is best for your painting, your inspiration, your view, your song.